Priorat Wines
The wines of Priorat have gained serious international acclaim for producing some of the highest quality red wines in the whole of Spain – in fact, alongside Rioja, it is the only Spanish wine region to have been granted the DOCa/DOQ (Denominación de Origen Calificada/Denominació d’Origen Qualificada), the highest quality recognition in Spain.
It’s a region on the eastern coast just south of Penedes that makes intense, powerful, long-lived red wines, made primarily from Garnacha, with Carinena and some international varieties.
Difficulty of access, challenging vineyard conditions and extreme weather means that viticulture in Priorat is hard. At the end of the 19th century the outbreak of phylloxera and growth of the textile industry in Catalunya caused many vineyards to be abandoned as local workers moved away. It was only in 1989 when René Barbier gathered a small group of winemakers to re-invigorate several selected vineyards and begin to produce wines again that the region bounced back. They adopted French winemaking techniques too, and by the mid-1990s international recognition had shot the wines to super-premium prices. It pretty much single-handedly changed the perception of Spanish winemakers outside Rioja and Ribera del Duero
Priorat’s location, soil structure and microclimate is unique and challenging. The region is remote and rocky, with slate and quartz soils (known as licorella), which means the vines have to dig deep to get nutrition and water. The climate is hot in the summer but moderated by protection from the Serra de Llaberia and Serra
de Montsant mountains. Yields are extremely low and vines are very old, driving up quality but also price.
Priorat Winemaking
The wines are almost entirely red, dense, complex and concentrated. Winemaking ranges from the very traditional, (basket presses, large oak vats) to modern styles with stainless steel tanks and optical sorting machines (which select the perfect grapes). They are typically matured in French oak for 1 to 2 years.
There is a trend towards acheiving freshness in the wines at the moment. In part because the wines tend to be around 14.5% abv and more, and so this helps balance the high alcohol. Overall, the best are concentrated with ripe fruits and relatively high acidity to provide freshness.
There are 4 classifications in Priorat depending on where the grapes are grown. To even qualify for these, the producer must have owned the vineyards for at least 7 years. There are also regulations regarding grape proportions in the blend, vine age and yields.
- Vi de Vila – Used when grapes have come from one of Priorat’s 12 sub-zones.
- Vi de Paratge - This category corresponds to grapes grown within a single paratge (a named site, a bit like a lieu dit in France). There are 459 paratges across Priorat.
- Vinya Classificada - Wine from a single vineyard within a Paratje, similar to a cru.
- Gran Vinya Classificada - Wine from an exceptional single vineyard within a Paratje, equivalent to a grand cru.
Recommendations On Priorat Wines
Bellesa Perfecta Priorat
Hand-made in tiny batches and aged in no-expense-spared oak barrels. This rich, complex and elegant red is just calling out to be the star of your next dinner party.
- Naked Wines
La Garnatxa Fosca Proyecto Garnachas de España, Priorat
Proyecto Garnachas de España is a project led by Raul Acha to protect Spain's old Garnacha vines. To craft this red, he's used vines over 60 years old, from slate-rich soils, in the acclaimed region of Priorat. The combination of old vines and slate soils have created a red with complex notes of dark cherry, cedar, herb and 'crushed rock' minerality.
- Majestic Wine