About Bordeaux Wines
All the main grape varieties [apart from 3] that produce the wines we have come to enjoy from every wine producing nation in the world, originated in France. So where better to start our wine journey, but here in Bordeaux. There is much to learn about Bordeaux as it is so important for us to understand the significance of not just its wines, but the complete influence this region and its history have on the wine world of today.
An Introduction to Bordeaux
2,000 years ago the Roman Port of Burdigala [Bordeaux] was a thriving centre of wine export activity, shipping wine to most other European countries with Holland and Roman Britain being two of their most important destinations. Although there were many other wine producing regions in France at this time, Bordeaux had direct access to the Atlantic giving it a major advantage over its ‘competitors’.
The Bordeaux wines produced in these times were rarely the red wines we associate this region with today, but mostly white or ‘Clairet’ meaning clear and very light red in colour. Clairet is from where the description ‘Claret' was derived [by the English] and is now widely used for any red wine being produced in the Bordeaux region, known as ‘Le Department de Gironde’.
In the middle Ages, the marriage of Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine opened the Bordeaux region to the English market and eventually to the world's stage!
The City of Bordeaux is the sixth largest in France and represents the epicentre of this most renowned wine region, helping to make France the largest producer and provider of the finest wines in the world, to the world. It is recognised also - as a region, a wine and a particular way of making wine and growing vines. Other contributions to the wine world are the famous 225 litre oak casks called ’Barriques’ and the word Chateau was created here in Bordeaux. Another major influence has been through its famous oenological institute, providing so much of the scientific research into wine production and vine cultivation to the benefit of producers everywhere.
Bordeaux lies on the river Garonne, which then joins the Gironde just north of the city and it is the presence of these two rivers that helps to create the absolute phenomena that are the wines of Bordeaux. The alluvial plains feed the vines of the two main red grape varieties grown here, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, forming the very essence of their most individual style and characteristics displayed at their best. Other grape varieties for the red wines are Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. For the white wines Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are the most important. With Muscadelle, Colombard and Ugni Blanc playing supporting roles. These varieties have hardly altered since they were introduced to this region in the middle ages.
"Did you know that the name Bordeaux derives from ‘Au Bord de l’Eaux’ meaning ‘beside the waters’!"
The Wine Regions & Appellations of Bordeaux
Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur - Account for nearly 50% of all wine produced in Bordeaux.
Entre-deux-Mers - Produces inexpensive white wines only.
Cotes de Bourg - Makes both red and white with more focus on Malbec than other Bordeaux appellations.
Cotes de Bordeaux - For red and white wines with a number of communes (Blaye, Castillon, Francs, Cadillac).
Left Bank
Right Bank
Graves
Pessac-Leognan
Sweet Wines of Bordeaux
Style of Bordeaux Wines
The climate is also another important factor in the production of high quality wine and most other French wine regions are envious that Bordeaux has the best on offer. Although growers here can never completely rest comfortably with this supposition, for nature has a way of providing many an upset as in April 1991. Night time temperatures dropped to minus 11 degrees bringing complete devastation to the vines.
2,000 hours sunshine per year
Normally however, Bordeaux experiences an average of 2,000 hours sunshine per year with fresh and damp springtime, summer hot for ripening and a warm autumn time for harvesting. When all these fall into place, it provides the beginnings of a recipe for optimum success of fine wine creation.
Climate change is playing a role in the reliability of this sadly. Summers are hotter, drier and lacking in rainfall. Bordeaux varieties are generally pretty hardy, but hot summers are resulting in unbalanced wines for certain years, 2003 being a prime example. On the flip side of this, you are also getting more sudden extreme frosts which decimate vineyards as in 2017 more recently which reduced wine production by 40% on 2016!
Due to vintage variation and the variety of individual Chateau styles, it is difficult to provide a precise description of the characteristics of all Bordeaux Wines. Chateau fiercely maintain and protect their house style as this is their history, signature and success criteria, developed through the growing and blending of the different grape varieties allowed under the AOC laws.
So what we will do at this point is to give an overview of the two main and most influential of these grape varieties. Not only do they make a unique blending partnership, but also produce great wines of their own – Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
The most famous red wine grape of them all:
On the Eye – Should always display an elegant appearance showing dense, crimson tones.
On the Nose - Predominantly blackcurrants and red plums, with perhaps a hint of vanilla if the wine has been aged in new oak. Some may give an aroma of fresh mint and newer wines, a note of green pepper.
On the Palate – Subtle flavours of blackcurrants and red plums with a good tannic structure, well balanced with the fruit flavours.
Bordeaux Management - It can struggle to ripen in cooler years which is a large part of the reason for the Bordeaux blend, although climate change is steadily seeing away with this issue. Cabernet is best suited to warm, well-drained soils, such as the gravel beds of the Médoc.
On the Eye – Ruby to dark red with garnet highlights.
On the Nose - Aromas of red plums and cherries, sometimes with a subtle hint of strawberries and raspberries.
On the Palate – Softer, fleshier and lower in acidity, Merlot can lack Cabernet’s tannic structure which is why there are so successful when blended together.
Bordeaux Management - It can ripen even in cooler years giving it an advatage over Cabernet Sauvignon, particularly in vineyards where there is a higher level of clay in the soils. As a result, it is the most widely planted grape on the Right Bank and in the northern Médoc.
You also find Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Semillon, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux. With climate change, Petit Verdot's heat affinity has grown in popularity with plantings increasing by 191% between 2000-2018! There have even been 6 new varieties allowed, including Spanish and Portuguese varieties such as Touriga Nacional (in port) and Albariño. Find out more about Bordeaux's Wine environmental drive at the link.
Bordeaux Classification
"There are 5 levels of ‘Grand Cru’ in the Bordeaux wine classification structure!"
The Wines of Bordeaux were classified in 1855 [created for an exposition in Paris for Emperor Napoleon 111’s birthday] and this is of significant importance to the wine quality structure of Bordeaux. ‘The 1855 Classification’ of grand cru classé is complex and needs to be understood as it forms the platform for all the great Bordeaux wines from the top 60 Chateaux as we know them today. After the creation of this, some appellations created their own classifications too. These are:
- The 1855 classification - Médoc wines were ranked from First to Fifth growths, and Sauternes into First and Second growths, with Chateau d'Yquem being awarded a special category of its own,
Premier Cru Supérieur. Today, the classification is largely unaltered and continues to affect prices. Cru classé is nearly a quarter of the wine produced in the Médoc. Key First Growths Medoc include Chateau Latour, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Château Haut-Brion and Chateau Mouton-Rothschild.
- Graves classification - Established in 1959, Graves established a list based on price, recognition and quality as judged by tasting panel. There are currently 16 classified châteaux, for both red and white wines located within the sub region of Pessac Léognan.
- Saint-Émilion Grand Cru classification - Dating back to 1955, this classification only applies to some wines in the Grand Cru and is revised at about 10-year intervals. Châteaux are judged on terroir, production, reputation and commercial considerations, including a blind tasting of at least 10 vintages. Chateau can be classified as either Premier Grand Cru and Grand Cru Classé.
- Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification - Created in 1932, Cru Bourgeois sits below Cru Classé, but still denotes good quality. The label is awarded annually to individual wines rather than to châteaux and any property in the Médoc can apply. There are now three tiers of quality: Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.
You may have noticed that Pomerol has avoided creating a classification system so far, despite boasting top properties like Chateau Petrus. Also, there has been some unsurprising controvesy about the rating systems. The Saint-Émilion classification in particular is contended, with various lawsuits affecting its reputation and value. Some well-known chateaux (Angélus, Ausone and Cheval Blanc) have now left the system. Plus, the term ‘Grand Cru’ is thought to be misleading. As for Graves, there are a number of notable quality estates not included in the current list.
Matching Bordeaux Wines with Food
Again it is difficult to be specific, as each wine has its own style they can be matched with so many different dishes. So here is a general guide ‘to tantalise your taste buds’.
The best examples I can give you are that the cuisine of Bordeaux is as diverse and exciting as its wines. The ‘Bordelais’ seem to have it all, with succulent lamb from Paulliac; oysters from the Bassin d’ Arrachon [often eaten here with a small local sausage called ‘crepinette’] asparagus from Blaye; duck from Gers and the famous beef [blonde d’Aquitaine] from Bazas. All this with an abundance of fish from the Atlantic provide a banquet of choice for the most discerning of food and wine lovers.
Always remember to ‘keep it simple’ so as an overview for you at this stage we have designed an easy check list for all of the red wines of this region:
White Wines are all so different across this region and again, as a simple guide for you to match:
Sauvignon Blanc with fish, seafood and dishes with creamy sauces
Sweeter wines from Semillon such as Sauternes - with blue cheeses
Dry wines from Semillon - with fish, seafood and hard cheeses
Note: Try and avoid really spicy foods with Bordeaux wines.
So we can match our wines of Bordeaux with food as we go with local recipes for you to try at home. Why not arrange a wine and food evening or lunch for your friends, sounds daunting but it can be made simple so you can enjoy the complete experience. Once you have chosen the wines from our list ask your guests to bring different ones so you can compare and we will provide recipes for you in future articles.