Jim Barry – An Aussie icon
A rising legend
When you hear about Australian wines there are a few names that should come to mind: Penfolds, Yellow Tail, Wolf Blass, Peter Lehmann and Jim Barry.
Jim Barry helped shape the world-famous Clare Valley as a Riesling powerhouse and one of Australia’s greatest wine regions. He was in fact the first qualified winemaker to work in the entire region, taking a job as winemaker and chemist at Clarevale Cooperative soon after graduating in 1946. It wasn’t until 1959 that Jim and his wife bought their first vineyard. Then, in 64 they bought more land from a certain Duncan McRae Wood, after whom one of their finest shirazes is named. This area became key to their red wine production. During this time, Jim helped establish Taylor’s, another famous Aussie winery, until finally buying the Lodge Hill property, after which one of their most recognizable wine brands is named.
Jim is sadly no longer around to keep up his incredible art but his winery is still family owned and in good hands by all accounts as the winery goes from strength to strength and recent vintages and blends are as good as ever.
Jim Barry Wines – how do they taste?
The Jim Barry lineup is impressive owing to the number of vineyards they own around the Clare Valley. I’ve picked the ones I have tried and heartily recommend, as well as a couple on my hit list with world renown.
Lodge Hill Riesling
The first of two eponymous wines in the Jim Barry collection, this is named after one of their key vineyard areas. The altitude here means that, despite high levels of sunlight, the temperatures are actually quite cool, especially at night. This has two effects: Full flavour development and pristine preservation of acidity. As a result, it is a great example of elegant, flavoursome Riesling. Citrus through lively lemon and lime with grapefruit enhancing it with a light bitter effect. Green apple brings a bracing, cheek sucking feeling (along with the high acidity) whilst honeysuckle, pear, nectarine, and the faintest development of Riseling’s signature petrol help balance it out. It is certainly refreshing due to the acidity, citrus and extremely dry level, but the complexity, balance and petrol beginnings are what make it quality Riesling.
Lodge Hill Shiraz
The second of the Lodge Hill wines, the Shiraz is again a fantastic expression of the variety. Being a cooler region than, say Barossa, the Shiraz here tend to be on the fresher, leaner side. More focus is on elegance than outright power. Expect ripe black plum and a mix of wild forest fruits, shored up by spicy oak and herbaceous hints of menthol and violet. It is an absolute treat.
Cover Drive Cabernet
It wouldn’t be Australian if cricket didn’t make it in somewhere, would it? The grapes for this come from the famous Coonawarra region which is known for its mint/eucalyptus influence on the Cab grape. Again, this is a cooler region resulting in a wine more reminiscent of French styles. It is full of blackberry, cherry and plum on the fruits whilst that eucalyptus influence is certainly there too. On the finish, the oak imparts mocha and tobacco characteristics.
McRae Wood Shiraz
This is stepping up a notch in quality now and exemplifies the kind of great Shiraz. Named after one of the Barry’s first vineyard purchases, the grapes from here are the declassified ones for the even greater Armagh they produce. Nonetheless, these are still fantastic quality. It has intense, spicy aromas of plum, cherry and black fruits, a subtle sweetness and well integrated spice from the oak. Even a little licorice comes out on the finish.
The Armagh
This is one of the greatest wines to come out of Australia, and the price alone might tell you that. Each vintage does differ slightly but complexity is the word for all of them. You’ll find a range of defined, standout flavours including praline, ginger, smoke, vanilla, mocha, chocolate, espresso licorice and truffle. Not to mention the beautiful nature of the dark, juicy fruits and fine tannin.
Jim Barry Assyrtiko
This is rather special for two reasons. Firstly, and maybe most biased, is it harks nicely to my Greek roots – I do like a Greek wine! Secondly, and perhaps more special to everyone else, is that the Barry’s were the first to plant this variety in Australia at the Lodge Hill Vineyard. This is the perfect grape based on what they do with their Riesling. Crisp, high in acidity, refreshing and with ample flavour. This is a zippy wine with lemon peel, lime and grapefruit with a herbal jasmine influence and mineral core. It’ll appeal to Riesling drinkers and Chablis lovers alike.
Updated 17th April 2024