The summit of Le Perréon is a sight to behold; a patchwork of Gamay vines spill in every direction. The brothers Bererd tend some of the region’s highest-altitude plots, with many vines pushing past 100 years old. This is, above all, an expressively aromatic Beaujolais, with waves of baking spices, blueberries and raspberries. Concentrated, balanced, and very age-worthy.