Abel Mendoza is first and foremost a farmer. He tends his vines in a very labour-intensive way to give them the care and attention they need to develop grapes that express precisely where they're from - Rioja Alavesa - the high-altitude, high-end part of Rioja. The vines are old too so the grapes are few and far between but packed full of flavour. This is a serious wine but you should at least try it once to see what all Rioja Blancos aspire to be.