Wine52: Welcome to Moldova

Moldova isn’t often the first place you think of when it comes to wine. One of Europe’s smallest and poorest countries, it is not known for any real export volume, let alone wine. But, times are changing as wine drinkers are becoming more adventurous and exploring wine regions the Romans used to enjoy.

This case explores the region of ‘Valul Lui Traian’, located in the Southwest and named after Trajan’s Wall. It boasts a winemaking tradition that spans two millennia from the Romans to being a primary supplier for the USSR. Since escaping the clutches of the USSR, Moldovan wine has undergone a renaissance with modern winemaking techniques, machines and theory supplementing their generations of experience to create high quality wines.

The Verdict

Zbor Riesling by Chateau Vartely

I have to admit I was excited to see a Riesling. Ask any wine professional what their favourite white grape is, and Riesling will be high up there if not top. The quality of wine it produces is almost always brilliant.

The nose did a good job of letting you know it was Riesling. Spiced, aromatic and citrusy are the three things I jotted down first, and that sums up Riesling pretty well. The acidity was zippy with lime and lemon enhancing this effect, whilst the finish culminated with a peach and spice combo. A nice streak of minerality plays a moderating role throughout and gives a bit of backbone.

Renastere Merlot by Vinaria Din Vale

International grape varieties are quite popular in Moldova, although lesser-known local grapes are now coming into style more. Still, I was pleased they had gone for this as it is a very good Merlot.

On the nose, aromas of earth and savoury notes rise quickly giving you a full-bodied picture. On tasting, juicy fruit, red and black berries and a sweet vanilla spice hit you immediately letting you know the nose was right. These ripe fruits help envelop the more earthy characteristics and mellow the impact which gives a super soft mouthfeel. This is an ideal wine for the colder months.

Maiestrie Saperavi by Kazayak-Vin

The most exciting grape is definitely the one with the funny name. Saperavi, a red grape I’ve had before but only from Georgian producers where it is most famous. It’s another hefty grape with a deep inky colour that’ll likely ruin your sofa without some quick action. But it is worth the spillage risk.

On the nose it is a wonderful mix of floral, herbaceous and spicy notes which are well underscored by the thick, luscious fruit notes. To taste, redcurrant, blackberry, blueberry and plum give it the fruity edge whilst a layer of dark chocolate, fine but prevalent tannin and charred wood form a meaty underlayer to sink your teeth into. This is a full bodied drinkers dream.

Overall I’d say Wine52 have been pulling the stops out recently with interesting wines. This exploration of Moldova coming so soon after their trip to Uruguay is giving wine drinkers the chance to really explore and see how good it is to escape Southern French Chardonnay or New Zealand Sauvignons once in a while. Delicious and interesting sums up this case perfectly.