Wine52 Explores Tejo in Portugal

Wine52’s latest case stars wines from the Portuguese region of Tejo, named after the river which divides the region. Tejo has had a negative reputation up until recently, mainly with large producers selling mass market wines destined for forgetful styles which serviced the demand for nearby Lisbon. However, it has come onto the wine scene with renewed vigour since a replanting programme began with a focus on quality grapes and newer varieties to take advantage of the varying soils and conditions in the region. There has also been great investment in winery equipment and improved winemaking techniques to boost the wines even more. This, coupled with Tejo’s links harking back to Roman wine production from foot treading to use of amphora to age the wine in, blends traditional and modern techniques, creating a balance between past and present.

Tejo’s links harking back to Roman wine production from foot treading to use of amphora...blends traditional and modern techniques

The Terras de Cartaxo was my particular favourite wine this time. It is a fairly typical blend for the region, comprised of Touriga Nacional (the principle grape in Port), Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Trincadeira and Castelão. It pours a deep ruby red and clings heavily to the glass.

On the nose it has a heady aroma of rich, dark black fruits and liquorice. The longer you leave it, the more it opens up – prune and fig begin to come out along with chocolate and coffee. Some dried herbs also enter the mix and lift the aromatic complexity of the wine.

On the palate it delivers quite the punch, not just from the intense flavours but also partly down to the rather high alcohol at 14.5%! But that is the signature of this style of sun-soaked wine: bold and powerful. The intensity of the dark fruits are penetrating: black plum, blackcurrant and maraschino cherries fight amongst themselves, whilst a tinge of wild strawberry brings some softness to the blend. These slowly subside into toasty oak notes and more developed baked fruits. The tannins are chewy, ripe and very well integrated, making the chocolate flavours feel like a light cocoa dust. This might all be a little too much if it wasn’t for the acidity acting as a balancing force, helping cut through the tannin and weighty flavours. I also find that the herbal element keeps it complex and varied rather than a one-note fruit bomb. Finally, a touch of vanilla and oak spice on the finish cap it off nicely.

This is a perfect food wine for the time of year, BBQ time. It will go fantastically with grilled meats and the ample flavour means it will complement even the most well-seasoned dish. Oh, and don’t forget to decant!